BY Charles Runette, NY TIMES

March 2007

California Kitchens

Despite a sensational farmers' market, Santa Monica, Calif., has long been something of a culinary void. But lately things have been looking up. Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen (1119 Wilshire Boulevard; 310-393-7050; entrees $16 to $34) began the turnaround with Samir Mohajer's seasonal dishes like lamb shanks with polenta and roasted baby artichokes. Michael Reardon's Catch (above; 1910 Ocean Way; 310-581-7714; entrees $26 to $42) serves inventive seafood plates in the Casa del Mar hotel, and in the Huntely hotel, the Penthouse (1111 Second Street; 310-393-8080; entrees $22 to $48) features farmers' market fare prepared by Seth Greenburg.

Most recently, Joe Miller set up the Barcelona-style tapas place Bar Pintxo (109 Santa Monica Boulevard; 310-458-2012; tapas $2 to $10). It's open daily until midnight, as is the new Japanese gastropub nearby, Robata Bar (1401 Ocean Avenue; 310-458-4771; small plates $2.50 to $20). The town's most anticipated arrival is Alain Giraud's brasserie Anisette (225 Santa Monica Boulevard; 310-395-3200), coming this spring. Having taken a few years off after helping open the beloved Bastide, Giraud will serve, he says, ''real food, with the freshest ingredients and none of the uptight feeling.''